Tales of Transit - Part One


Stone Town. Zanzibar’s gateway to the outside world, a transit point for things lost and found, a spicy port for departure nostalgias and arrival thrills. 


When in Stone Town I visit familiar places. A gift from my friend Alex. A non-material good that you will also give one day to someone. 

Where are these places?

Well, this is the first thing you need to know about Stone Town. It is impossible to know where are they, how to get to them and how to come back. It is a streetless city operating on places, buildings and events appearing in the unexpected location and time. 

A caffeinated experience in Zanzibar Coffee House. Ohhh, those pretty little coffee cans. Within minutes distance a Mango Chutney Place. Straight, then left. Or straight and right. If Stone Town decides that it is meant to be found.  Tiny store with meaty mangos pickled in creamy spiciness. Jarred for your pleasure.  After taking the curvy straight there is your ATM heaven and happy belly place. I was pretty sure that my favourite eatery’s name is Lukman. Well, it isn’t. But it is right next to it.  Oh well. 

A longer walk into the shopping streets and then four turnovers and three come backs away there is a wood carving district. If you are lucky, you will come across the wonder shop where my best friend bought the 1966 and 1949 Ugandan coins. There should be the old cinema not too far away. It looks like it is going to premiere The Good, The Bad and The Ugly in a day.  There is this time capsuled photo store with framed memories from past long gone. Good luck finding it – I’ve only managed once. 

It’s all very easy once you see the big water. The shiny port with gigantic master ships and tiny local boats that seem to be the absurd proof of our survival instinct. The House of Wonders. Trade masters, handsome sultans, oriental princess beauties and events electrified. Google for facts. This is how I see them. Oh, oh, oh. Opposite to House of Wonders you’ll find the Famous Gardens Where Lonely Planet Tells You Should Eat After Dark as This Is Local Food. Go give it a try later. Zanzibar pizza is a delight. 

Now, you have to hurry, before the sunset you need to be in Swahili House.  Go back to Zanzibar Coffee House. It’s only 30 meters and an hour walk. Go up to the fifth floor. Take the carved wooden stairs. Go to the terrace. Watch sun go down. Listen to tales of the city. This is how it starts.



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