Tales of Transit - Part One
Stone Town. Zanzibar’s gateway to the outside world, a transit point for things lost and found, a spicy port for departure nostalgias and arrival thrills.
When in Stone Town I visit familiar places. A gift
from my friend Alex. A non-material good that you will also give one day to
someone.
Where are these places?
Well, this is the first thing you
need to know about Stone Town. It is impossible to know where are they, how to
get to them and how to come back. It is a streetless city operating on places,
buildings and events appearing in the unexpected location and time.
A caffeinated experience in
Zanzibar Coffee House. Ohhh, those pretty little coffee cans. Within minutes
distance a Mango Chutney Place. Straight, then left. Or straight and right. If
Stone Town decides that it is meant to be found. Tiny store with meaty mangos pickled in creamy
spiciness. Jarred for your pleasure. After
taking the curvy straight there is your ATM heaven and happy belly place. I was
pretty sure that my favourite eatery’s name is Lukman. Well, it isn’t. But it
is right next to it. Oh well.
A longer walk into the shopping
streets and then four turnovers and three come backs away there is a wood carving
district. If you are lucky, you will come across the wonder shop where my best
friend bought the 1966 and 1949 Ugandan coins. There should be the old cinema not too far
away. It looks like it is going to premiere The Good, The Bad and The Ugly in a
day. There is this time capsuled photo
store with framed memories from past long gone. Good luck finding it – I’ve
only managed once.
It’s all very easy once you see
the big water. The shiny port with gigantic master ships and tiny local boats
that seem to be the absurd proof of our survival instinct. The House of
Wonders. Trade masters, handsome sultans, oriental princess beauties and events
electrified. Google for facts. This is how I see them. Oh, oh, oh. Opposite to House of Wonders you’ll
find the Famous Gardens Where Lonely Planet Tells You Should Eat After Dark as
This Is Local Food. Go give it a try later. Zanzibar pizza is a delight.
Now, you
have to hurry, before the sunset you need to be in Swahili House. Go back to Zanzibar Coffee House. It’s only 30
meters and an hour walk. Go up to the fifth floor. Take the carved wooden
stairs. Go to the terrace. Watch sun go down. Listen to tales of the city. This
is how it starts.
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